The original Alaunt was used as a hunting or guarding dog. They had the ability to catch and hold their prey and was useful for guarding both homes and flocks of animals. Since this breed has been extinct for centuries, information regarding its origins is scarce. The newer version of the breed, however, is alive and well and is referred to as the American Alaunt.
The American Alaunt dog breed is fairly new and is not considered a resurrection of the Alaunt. The American Alaunt is large and intelligent. Breeders are more concerned with intelligence and physical abilities than appearance, so some might say this is an ugly dog with no standards. This is untrue, as all dogs recognized as American Alaunts must exhibit certain traits. All dogs should be visibly muscular and weigh from 90 to 150 pounds. Males are larger than females.
The head should be broad with a muscular jaw and the body should be longer than it is tall. Legs must be straight with thick, sturdy bones. The chest must be wide in appearance, but not so wide that the natural movement of the dog is impeded. The feet should be compact, and toes should be rather short and never splayed. This dog is incredibly strong for its size and is a natural runner. The speed and agility of this dog can look a little odd in a dog of this size, but both these traits are impressive.
The temperament of this dog is a plus. American Alaunts are couragous, loving, confident, and stable. There is no fear or even flightiness in this dog and they are incredibly loyal to their established family. Bonding to this family may take a little done, but once it's done, it cannot be undone. Highly intelligent and affectionate, the American Alaunt is generally good with children and other animals, though getting used to small animals that move quickly takes time for any dog with a high prey drive.
The American Alaunt does best with a yard to run around in. They can live in apartments if necessary, but you'll have to exercise your dog with long walks at least twice a day. This particular breed of dog tends to be inactive indoors, so staying inside all the time is simply a recipe for obesity in your dog.
This breed is an average shedder, but the short coat is relatively easy to groom. A quick comb with a firm bristle brush twice a week can usually help keep the shedding under control. It also removes dead hair, making your dog more comfortable.
The American Alaunt is a sweet and loyal breed that will stay by your side. They can be the perfect fit for the right family.
The Ambullneo Mastiff is a relatively new breed than came to light in the 1980s in Southern California. An English Mastiff was crossed to a Naepolitan female. Two of the resulting pups were bred to a Game Bred Pitbull. Then these pups were bred to a Bullmastifff. These puppies were 55% Mastiff and 45% Bulldog. But this isn't the end of the story. These pups, which we'll call Pup1 for clarity, would be bred to Pup2. Pup2 had just as interesting a beginning as Pup1. An American Bulldog/Pitbull was bred to a Bullmastiff. These pups are Pup2, and Pup2 was 70% Bulldog and 30% Mastiff. When Pup1 was bred to Pup2, the result was 57.5% Bulldog and 42.5% Mastiff. This cross is what we now call the Ambullneo Mastiff.
But more than a decade would pass before the breed would be admitted to The National Kennel Club (NKC). The dogs obviously had to be tested for both intelligence and fertility. Once this was done and their physical health was assured, the dog was declared a recognized breed. Still, this breed is too new to be accepted by most associations around the world.
The Ambullneo Mastiff is a sturdy dog with a large head and a strong jaw. The ears are usually cropped, but if left alone they drop rather like a retriever's ears. The neck is thick and the shoulders are strong and hefty. The tail is thick and long, dropping as low as the hocks when the dog is at rest. A large dog, the Ambullneo Mastiff can weigh as much as 150 pounds, though females tend to be considerably smaller.
This breed of dog is highly intelligent and a natural guardian. Once bonded to their family, they will guard to the death. This dog isn't stubborn, but it is sensitive. You have to take care to assert yourself, but not to the point where you're shouting at the dog. The Ambullneo Mastiff is very aware of tone, so keep your voice low.
These dogs bond and bond quickly, sometimes to the point where they'll become aggressive to strangers. To prevent this, socialize your dog before it bonds too closely to you and your family. Obedience classes are a virtual must with the Ambullneo Mastiff. A curious dog, this breed likes to explore and learn new things, so keep your dog engaged and entertained.
The Ambullneo Mastiff is a hardy dog, though it is prone to hip dysplasia. To lower the risk of your dog developing this condition, limit strenuous activity until the dog is at least two years of age. This gives the hips time to fully mature. These dogs like activity and do not do well in an apartment. A fenced yard is best, but make it a 6-foot fence. Any shorter and the dog may just jump over it. The Ambullneo Mastiff enjoys being outside, though not all the time. In cold weather, make sure a dog house is provided. In warm weather, shade and plenty of water is required. If they have these things, they'll probably spend most of their time exploring their territory.
If you're hoping for a low maintenance breed, the Ambullneo Mastiff might be the right choice for you. This breed has short hair and sheds little, so a quick comb with a firm bristle brush once a week is generally all that is required. For bathing, consider a dry shampoo every three months. A full bath is only necessary when the dog is truly dirty or smells (which happens since they roll in anything they can find). You'll have to keep the nails trimmed to avoid damage to floors and furniture, but that's the worst you'll encounter with these breed.
The Ambullneo Mastiff makes a great family pet if you handle this breed just right. With plenty of socialization, they can learn to get along with most people and larger pets. This breed is not a good idea for families with small children or pets (such as cats or small dogs) unless you're going to be on top of your dog at all times. Otherwise, they're a good choice for anyone with a large yard.
Also known as the Alpenlandischer Dachsbracke, Alpenländische Dachsbracke, and the Basset des Alpes, the Alpine Dachsbracke resembles an ancient hunting dog. More recently (if you can call the 19th century recent), Prince Rudolf of Habsburg made his gamekeepers include Alpine Dachsbracken (plural version of the breed) on his hunting trips to Egypt and Turkey in the 1880s. In the 20th century, the breed actually started to gain some recognition. In 1932 the top canine organizations in Austria recognized the Alpine-Erzgebirgs-Dachsbracke as the third scenthound breed. But it wasn't until 1975 that the name was formally changed to Alpine Dachsbracke and its country of origin was declared to be Austria by the FCI (Fédération Cynologique Internationale, sometimes referred to as the World Canine Organization). Finally, in 1991, the Alpine Dachsbracke was added to Section 2 of Scenthounds in the FCI nomenclature.
The Alpine Dachsbracke is a hardy and sturdy hunting dog with short legs and a strong bone structure. These dogs have a dense coat and firmly defined muscles. The nose and lips should be black. The lips themselves should be close fitting and have a moderate curve. The neck of this dog breed should be strong but not too long and the back is straight. The chest should be deep and the shoulders are strongly muscled. The tail should be set high and is fairly thick. When at rest, the tail of the Alpine Dachsbracke dog is carried slightly downward and doesn't quite reach the ground.
With a thick top coat and a dense undercoat, the Alpine Dachsbracke can stay warm even when wet, but they don't do well in truly cold weather. Ideally, the perfect dog should be a dark deer red and may or may not have black hairs lightly interspersed. A black dog with clearly defined red-brown markings on the chest, head, feet, legs, and the underside of the tail is also permitted. A white star on the chest is allowed by not generally preferred.
The temperament of the Alpine Dachsbracke is similar to many other hunting breeds. They are friendly, loyal, and fearless. This dog breed is used to working, usually in the mountains at a hunter's side, so they are hardy, sturdy, and adaptable. They do like daily walks, but they can also adapt to life in an apartment. They are not large, not usually weighing more than 40 pounds and generally not any larger than 16 inches at the shoulder. But they are powerful and solid, so be prepared for a strong dog, especially for its size.
If you're looking for a dog that's generally low maintenance, the Alpine Dachsbracke might be the dog you're looking for. The coat is smooth, short, and sleek, so it doesn't require much care. Brush your dog once a week or so to remove any dead hair and dry shampoo four times a year (unless the dog is truly dirty), and you're basically done. You do need to watch the ears, however. These dogs are prone to ear infections due to their large drooping ears.
The Alpine Dachsbracke makes a good companion dog for many people around the world. They do enjoy exploring and hunting, so you should make an effort to indulge your dog's desire for the new and exciting.
Distant ancestors of the Alopekis first appear in ancient Greece. Its name comes from the Greek word alopecis, which means "fox-like" and aptly describes this dog. The Alopekis was a developed naturally on the streets of ancient Greece, though today dog breeders carefully select breeding pairs. This breed is so similar in type to the Small Greek Domestic Dog that they were originally considered variations of the same breed. Today, however, they are considered their own breeds with their own standards in most associations.
The Alopekis really does look like a little fox. The ears are perky and wedge-shaped and the tail is bushy. The body is longer than it is high (at the shoulders) and allows for quick and graceful movements. The eyes are large and almond shaped and should be the same color. Eyes that are blue, yellow, or transparent (so they appear watery) are not encouraged.
The coat should be medium-short in length, never exceeding 2 inches. The coat should generally lie flat, though a slight wave is acceptable. The coat should have some sheen and should have a hard and smooth outer coat. The under coat should be soft and dense. Colors vary and should coordinate with the color of the eyes. Albinos are not an acceptable variety.
There are some wirehaired Alopekis in existence, but this variety is rare. With some careful breeding, the wirehaired variety could be developed, but this hasn't happened just yet.
Weighing anywhere from 6.5 to 15.5 pounds, the Alopekis is a small dog used to city life. This small breed is strong, healthy, tireless, intelligent, pleasant, and incredibly hardy. Friendly and even-tempered, the Alopekis is great with children and can usually adapt to living with other pets. Though small, they are protective of their family and will defend their people if need be. They are easily bored, however, so you should make sure your dog has something to do, especially when you're away from home.
This breed is highly adaptable. They can make their home on the farm or in a tiny apartment. They do like exercise and benefit from daily walks, but they don't need as much room to run as many other breeds. The Alopekis is a hardy dog with no known genetic problems. They are easy to care for and need only a casual brushing every week or so.
In the distant past there was a hairless variety of the Alopekis, sometimes called the Turkish Naked Dog (though it really was just a hairless Alopekis). Unfortunately, this variety has since become extinct. Today, we have only single variety of Alopekis, and hopefully this breed will continue to thrive.
The Alaskan Malamute is a direct descendant of the Arctic Wolf. These dogs get their name from the Mahlemuts, an ancient tribe that raised and cared for these dogs in the area we now call Alaska. The Mahlemuts used the ancestors of the Alaskan Malamute as their only form of transportation across the frozen north. This breed pulled light sleds and heavy loads all across the tundra using their inherent strength and endurance. As the centuries flew past and the north was explored, these dogs spread throughout the world.
This northern breed is actually the largest of all the Arctic dogs, sometimes weighing as much as 100 pounds. The Alaskan Malamute is sturdy, solid, and strong. They have a plumed tail that is usually carried over the back and a coarse double coat which is typically between 1 and 3 inches long. This thick coat insulates the dog in the coldest of climates and is found in a range of colors from light grey to black. Sable and even red are also common. Color combinations for this breed include black and white, wolf sable (red undercoat with a darker grey outercoat), wolf grey, and red. Solid colors are not generally acceptable, the single exception being a solid white coat. The highlights of the coat are usually darker, sometimes with a dark mask or cap. The legs and muzzle are usually white, though there are some exceptions to this standard.
The head of the Alaskan Malamute is wide and the ears are large and erect. The eyes should be of a medium size, almond in shape, and placed obliquely on the skull. The eyes themselves should be dark in color according to most associations. Blue eyes are typically grounds for disqualification in the show ring, but many enthusiasts and fans of the breed find blue eyes desirable.
Grooming is fairly easy with this breed. They don't really need to be bathed since the coat of an Alaskan Malamute almost repels dirt. You might want to use a dry shampoo a few times a year, but otherwise don't worry about it. This breed is clean and virtually odorless. You will, however, have to brush your dog frequently. Twice a week most of the time and daily during the spring and falls seasons when this breed drops an incredible amount of hair. Brushing will help keep the shedding under control and relieve any itching your dog may experience, but there's no getting away from all the shedding.
The temperament of the Alaskan Malamute will either make you love them or hate them. This dog is intelligent, loyal, affectionate, and sweet. They are good with older children and tend to be rather mellow as adults (though as puppies they can be terrors). They enjoy cooler temperatures and living outdoors, though they really do need the presence of their "people" to be happy. Ideally, this breed should live with people who enjoy outdoor activities.
Of course, no breed is all sunshine and roses. These dogs need a firm leader and something to do. If they are lacking either of these things, they can become destructive, sometimes doing thousands of dollars worth of damage in very little time. Alaskan Malamutes are also incredibly stubborn, which can make them difficult to train. They need constant attention and consistency in order to grow into well-mannered adult dogs.
This dog has a strong prey drive, so supervise them when they're around small children and animals. Under normal circumstances, it's perfectly safe to have them around children and other animals, but be cautious anyway. These dogs are very like wolves, so if you wouldn't leave a wolf alone with your child, don't leave an Alaskan Malamute alone with your child. Also be careful of allowing this dog free reign with other dogs, especially dogs of the same gender. Fights can sometimes occur, and breaking up a dog fight is never any fun. They need a lot of socialization early in life to overcome these tendencies.
Alaskan Malamutes have another trait that either annoys or amuses their owners. They tend to bury their food. These dogs are thrifty eaters and often bury the food they don't need for later use. This is annoying when they're burying food in laundry baskets (as one of our own Malamutes used to do). Those that don't bury their food may scarf down everything and eventually become obese and unhealthy. Careful feeding is recommended.
These dogs do not do well in apartments. They need exercise and must lead an active life, so a large yard is almost a must. A fence is a necessity, but make sure the fence is at least 6 feet high and is buried at least 2 feet underground. They can both jump and dig, so they do tend to escape. Some of them even climb, so supervise your dog. Some people chain their Alaskan Malamutes, but chains aren't necessarily all that effective. Once upon a time my father used a chain to try to keep his Malamute from roaming. It was a cow chain attached to a sturdy leather collar at one end and a long metal spike driven deep into the ground at the other end. The dog actually broke the cow chain in order to "visit" what he considered to be his territory. The collar was intact. The lesson? You're better off with a fenced yard. If you're worried about your dog climbing over the fence, think about building a dog run with a roof. Trust me, it's better than a chain.
Like many breeds, the Alaskan Malamute has its share of health problems. They do tend to be prone to bloat and many suffer from hip dysplasia. A few even suffer from chondrodysplasia, otherwise known as dwarfism. But the biggest problem with this breed, at least from a health perspective, is that they are prone to heat stroke and heat exhaustion. Their thick coat protects them from even the coldest temperatures, but the heat can really do them in. They must have shade and plenty of water whenever the temperature rises. Consider a large container (perhaps a kiddie pool) filled with water for the dog to stand in. It will help keep your dog cool in warm temperatures. In extreme heat, bring to dog into an air conditioned area.
This breed is related to the Samoyed, Siberian Husky, and American Eskimo Dog and excels at pulling, racing, sledding, and search and rescue. If you're willing to brush out your dog twice a week and put up with excessive shedding twice a year, this might be the right companion for you.
The Alaskan Klee Kai, otherwise known as the Miniature Alaskan Husky or the Mini Husky, is basically a smaller version of the Alaskan Husky (though some people seem to think that this breed resembles the Siberian Husky). This breed has great variety and may weigh anyway from 10 to 40 pounds. There are also three color variations to choose from.
Developed in the 1970s, this breed is still relatively new in the dog world. They look like a smaller Alaskan Husky, but they actually have a little of three distinct breeds -- Alaskan Huksy, Siberian Husky, and American Eskimo. With the focus shifting from large dogs to smaller companion dogs, the Alaskan Klee Kai is becoming more common throughout North America. They are still seldom seen worldwide.
This dog sheds a lot, has an off-the-charts energy level, and can be yappy. Because of this, they are not suitable for apartments or families with irritable neighbors. The Alaskan Klee Kai needs quite a bit of exercise on a daily basis to keep from becoming high strung and even neurotic, so even though they are small in size they need room to move. They are friendly but sometimes distrustful of strangers and they bond very closely to their own family. Because they do tend towards neurotic, they need a calm and loving home where the "pack order" is clearly established.
The Alaskan Klee Kai comes in three basic varieties -- standard, miniature, and toy. Standard Alaskan Klee Kais are usually between 15 and 17.5 inches high at the shoulder. Miniatures typically stand between 13 and 15 inches, again at the shoulder. Toys are considered anything under 13 inches. All varieties are prone to stomach ailments, but toys are particularly susceptible.
With the right home and weekly brushing, the Alaskan Klee Kai can make a delightful companion for anyone from a young teenager to a senior citizen.
An Alaskan Husky is the ultimate working dog and is not the same as the Alaskan Malamute. They are born and bred to pull and are legendary for their endurance. Breeders very carefully select breeding pairs to ensure the best working dog possible. The result is a sturdy dog that resembles the Siberian Husky but with a leaner build. They're also considerably stronger and slightly larger than the Siberian. Alaskan Huskies have a thick coat to deal with all sorts of weather and a fluffy tail that is sometimes carried over the back. They can have eyes ranging from blue to brown. Many dogs have a combination of blue and brown eyes.
Since the Alaskan Husky is bred to be a working dog, they are easily bored and tend to chew or scratch if they don't have something to do. A dog that is lonely or bored will quickly become destructive. They are loyal and gentle, so as long as you can keep them occupied, they make great pets. They stay puppy-like throughout their lives and are wonderful with most children. They tend to love everyone and are relatively quiet (though they do like to howl, sometimes at nothing), so they don't make great watchdogs.
Huskies are incredibly stubborn, so much so that they are sometimes considered stupid. This is untrue, as they are intelligent and highly trainable. If you're going to train an Alaskan Husky, however, you must be prepared to be the leader. If you're not the leader of your own little pack, your Husky will have no respect for you. This disrespect doesn't usually turn to violence, as Huskies are not a naturally violent breed. Instead, your Alaskan Husky is likely to simply ignore you, an ability they seem to share with most cats.
These dogs are born to roam so they don't do well in apartments. They need exercise and room to move. If you do have an Alaskan Husky in an apartment, prepare to walk your dog at least three times a day. This isn't optional as they absolutely must have this much exercise. It would be better if your dog had a fenced yard to explore and toys to keep him or her busy. An Alaskan Husky should not be left to roam without a fence. These dogs do tend to wander off purely by accident and you might never seen your canine companion again. They also like to dig, so the fence should extend at least a foot below the ground.
This dog is bred for colder climates. They enjoy being outside when the temperature dips below freezing, but they really can't stand the heat. On a blistering summer day, you need to give your dog a way to cool down. Maybe an air conditioned garage or even a tub of water large enough for the dog to stand in.
The fluffy coat of an Alaskan Husky requires very little maintenance. But this breed does have two shedding seasons a year, one in the spring and one in the fall. During these periods Huskies will drop a lot of hair and may mat. Brush out the coat every few day with a metal comb to help prevent uncomfortable matting.
Though most Alaskan Huskies are indeed pedigreed, they are not considered pure by the AKC or the CKC and so are not registered by either association. This is because breeders will sometimes introduce other breeds into their breeding programs. Regardless of their acceptance by two of the largest associations in the world, they are a loving and joyful breed and make wonderful companions for many people.
Though the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is descended from the English Bulldog, it really has its origins in the late 1800s. In the southern USA (Georgia, to be specific) an effort was made to save the "plantation dog" from extinction. Outcrosses deemed to enhance the line were incorporated over the course of a century. This concerted effort resulted in the rare guard dog we now call the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog. Because of its rarity, this dog is not accepted by many societies throughout the world. The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog wasn't recognized by anyone until 1986, and this was only by the Animal Research Foundation (ARF).
This dog certainly has many of the traits we have come to associate with the term bulldog. The dog is well developed and sturdy with a broad head and drop ears. The muzzle is prominent and the eyes are set well apart. The coat of the Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is short and coarse and may be of many colors, though the following are preferred: red merle, blue merle, or brown merle. All colors should be trimmed in white, or a combination of chocolate and white. Eyes should be blue or a mix of blue and brown in a single eyes. These eye colors are called glass or marble eyes, respectively. The ears and tail should never be docked or trimmed and the dewclaws should not be removed, so if your breeder suggests these practices, look for another breeder.
The Alapaha is highly trainable and extremely loyal. It will fight to the death to protect its family, and is highly protective of children. It makes a good guard dog and companion dog. It is on the larger size, sometimes growing to as much as 100 pounds, so make sure you take your dog to obedience classes to ensure a well socialized dog. This dog usually does not suit apartment living, but the Alapaha can adapt to an apartment if they are exercised at least twice a day.
Unfortunately, this dog breed is prone to some health problems, mostly because of the limited genetic pool. They tend to suffer from entropion, which is an inversion of the eyelids. Talk to your breeder about health problems specific to the line. Regardless of line, all Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldogs require some brushing. They have short hair, yes, but the hair can make them itchy, so groom your dog once a week to remove dead hair.
This sturdy breed, which correctly belongs in the mastiff group, is a good guard dog for homes and farms. It's also a good companion dog for many people around the world.
The Alano Español, also called the Spanish Alano or the Spanish Bulldog, is a large sturdy dog with its origins in Molossia (which makes it a molossar breed). They are an ancient breed whose origins are still unclear. The dog looks a little primitive, it's true, but it's built for a purpose. The Alano Español can run at high speeds for a long time as it ranges over over the countryside chasing cattle and holding them in place for many hours at a time. They can also hunt all day and well into the night. The stamina of this breed is rarely matched in the canine world.
The body of the Spanish Bulldog is well proportioned with strong legs and an arched rib cage. The paws are larger than you might think and give the dog a good grip on the ground, allowing for sharp turns and sudden stops. The tail is thick at the base and tapers to a point. It is generally carried over the back and is never cropped. Why? Because the tail is used as a rudder, helping the dog negotiate sharp turns at high speeds.
This dog can appear frightening, but only because it holds it head low and looks to be constantly searching for something. They are agile enough for the toughest agility competitions and smart enough to learn quickly. Acceptable colors for the Spanish Bulldog include yellow, gray, fawn, red, or black. Brindling is allowed but not required, just as with the classic black mask. White markings are allowed, but usually only on the snout, neck, chest, belly, lower legs, or the tip of the tail. White is never the main color of the Spanish Alano.
The Spanish Alano is sweet and submissive with its own family and is generally great with children. As this dog is a social breed, it is generally good with other dogs, though it may see cats as prey. Strangers are another matter. This dog is both serious and dominant, and strangers will be greeted with suspicion. They can attack with very little warning, though generally only when the situation calls for it. These dogs follow the orders of their master, no matter what. If told to hold a bull in place, they will do so or die trying.
This dog is smaller in size than some, sometimes getting as large as 90 pounds. The Alano Español has few health problems, probably because it developed in a place where only the strongest survived. They also heal faster than most other dog breeds. In addition, they are one of the few molossar breeds that does not snore, drool, or slobber, making them easier to have as house pets.
These dogs need a lot of exercise and they like to be outside, so they don't make very good apartment dogs. The Spanish Alano doesn't mind the heat or the cold, happily roaming and investigating during most temperatures. They do need plenty of water in the heat, and they don't like to roast, so bring them in when the temperature is soaring. As for cold ... they don't mind a little cold, but if the temperature drops significantly below freezing, they probably need to come in.
The Alano Español makes a good companion and will guard its family against all ills. But they don't do well with new people, so don't let them roam where they might encounter someone they don't know.
The Akita is a breed that generates some controvery around the world. There are really two types of Akitas. The American Akita, whose breed standard allows a black mask, is most common in North America. The Akita Inu is the original breed of Japanese origin and does not allow for a black mask. In most of North America, these are considered to be one breed with differences in type. In some other areas of the world, however, they are considered different breeds. For the purposes of this article, I will use "Akita" to refer to the North American standard, which means both breeds with just a slight variation between the two.
This large and sturdy breed has a well defined head with a solid color nose. The ears are strong and erect, but rather small in relation to the massive head. The rims of the eyes and the lips are black, but the tongue is pink. The tail is large and curled, straight and full, and often carried over the back. When extended, the tail would reach down to the hock. They may not look it, but a mature Akita can weigh as much as 120 pounds.
The Akita has a double coat with a thick, soft, and dense undercoat. The outer coat is straight, harsh, and standing somewhat off the body. The Akida may be of any color, including white, pinto, or bridle. The colors should be rich and distinctive and the markings well balanced. Some Akitas have a mask or markings, some do not. The markings mostly depend on the lineage of both parents. Some Akitas have longer hair, but only if both parents carry the recessive longhair gene.
An Akita can be very vocal, but they're not really barkers. Instead they make a variety of odd sounds. This breed is very social and makes a wonderful family pet. They feel an intense need to be with their family. They are intelligent, docile, and friendly, which makes them easy to train. But they are also courageous, almost fearless, and will go to any lengths to protect their family. They are willful and need a guiding hand to remain calm. Without this guiding hand, they can become aggressive, usually to other dogs and small animals. The Japanese version of this breed is so protective that Japanese mothers would often leave their children in the care of the family's Akita. I don't endorse this practice, but it was common in Japan for many years. Akitas, however, are attached just to their own family. Don't leave unfamiliar children alone with any Akita.
The Akita is unfortunately prone to hip dysplasia. Hypothyroid and autoimmune thyroiditis, immune diseases like VKH and Pemphigus,
skin problems like SA, eye (PRA, Micro, entropion) patella, problems with the knee also seem to affect the breed. Look for a reputable breeder and ask about any health problems.
Akitas are great family dogs and remain loyal to their family. Bear in mind, however, that they are a large breed and can be quite stubborn. They benefit from an organized obedience class and a strong human pack unit.
If there was ever a dog born for herding, it's the Akbash. This dog is white and well built. It has keen hearing and is incredibly strong, even when compared to other breeds of similar size. The double coat is non-matting, coarse, and weather resistent. The coat does require regular grooming to help with the shedding, since Akbash dogs are above average shedders. Oddly, especially for a dog this large, there is very little odor associated with this breed. The ears of this dog flop forward and lie close to the skull, though some imported Turkish may actually have cropped ears. This cropping practice is unusual, but it does happen.
The eyes are set well apart and are almond-shaped with colors ranging from golden brown to a brown so dark it's almost black. The tail of the Akbash is long and bushing, hanging down to the hock of the animal when relaxed. When walking, this breed has a springy gait that makes it appear excited to get to wherever it happens to be going. This dog is not recommended for apartment living since it's BIG. It weighs between 90 and 130 pounds and can be as tall as 32 inches at the shoulder.
The Akbash dog is an interesting combination of dominance and submission. The dogs must be submissive enough to not disturb the livestock they're expected to guard but dominant and aggressive enough to stand up to wolves and bears. This is a breed that must be given a job to do. Preferably the job they were bred for -- guarding livestock. If you want to make this dog a companion, you have to be willing to socialize with your dog all the time. You can't lock an Akbash up in a yard all by itself for 12 hours a day and expect to have a loving companion when you get home. The Akbash isn't a Poodle. It's just not wired the way a more social dog is. They're a working breed and need to be respected as such.
An Akbash is a guarding dog that both patrols and barks, so your dog will bark if left outside on its own. A lot. It's a bother-the-neighbors kind of bark. So don't think you can stick this dog in the backyard with nothing to do all night. It will not impress your neighbors. If, however, they are guarding a flock, they will bark only when necessary to protect their charges. They are very contentious guard dogs, but they tend to be dog-aggressive, so you probably don't want other dogs around.
This dog is not usually recommended in household with children under 8 or 10 years of age. All children in the household must be able to establish dominance over the dog. If this can be done, problems are relatively rare. Most of the problems that might crop up will do so during visits by friends and family. An Akbash will view visitors as intruders. As long as the alpha (usually the owner) is present, things tend to be fine. The dog will bow to the behavior displayed by its alpha. But leave the dog alone with the "intruders", especially if the "intruders" are children, and you're asking for trouble. So just don't. Take the dog with you when you go to get the snacks for the children. Of course, I usually tell people not to leave children unsupervised with dogs, especially dogs who don't know these particular children, but be extra careful with a dog like the Akbash.
Oddly enough, the Akbash might resent children, but is really good with infants. This is because this breed, both male and female, has a strong maternal instinct. They bond quickly to the livestock they guard, especially if introduced to this livestock before 6 months of age. They are so good with all manner of babies that sheep and cattle will often let the dog sniff and clean their own newborns. But don't be fooled. This dog will immediately react to any threat and will lay down its life to protect its flock.
These dogs definately have a mind of their own. They are trainable, but they are incredibly independent. This means that any Akbash will think twice about any command, even one given by someone considered the "alpha". It's just the nature of this particular breed. I do not recommend that the Akbash be anyone's first dog and it's not a dog for anyone who doesn't want a serious guard dog.
Most large breeds have health problems, and the Akbash is no exception. Thankfully, however, they seem to have fewer health problems than other large dog breeds. Hip dysplasia and OCD have occured, but they are still relatively rare. To decrease the chances of getting a dog with hip dysplasia, buy only from OFA hip certified stock. If your breeder doesn't know what this means, look for another breeder.
These dogs are great for what they are -- flock guard dogs. If you're looking for a breed to guard your sheep or cattle, the Akbash might be for you.
It's important that you understand the mentality of a dog before you begin training and socializing. When dogs live together as a group, they have a pack leader, someone who is in charge. This leader, this alpha, decides when everyone eats, how much they get, where everyone sleeps, when playtime begins and ends, and what kind of play can take place. The pack leader also decides where the group will go and how fast they will get there. When you bring your dog home, you're essentially giving your dog a pack, even if that pack is only you and the dog. And most dogs will automatically look to you as the pack leader. In fact, you dog needs you to be pack leader. If you don't assume the role of leader, your dog will, and this will not lead to a harmonious existence for either of you.
So how do you go about establishing your role as leader? It's actually easier than it sounds. When you teach your dog to obey commands and to conform to the rules of basic etiquette, you are taking the first steps to establishing yourself as alpha. Be firm with your dog, but never harsh. You don't need to be mean to be in charge. Avoid using techniques such as alpha rolls (forcing the dog onto his back and staring at him) unless you know exactly what you're doing. These thing can backfire and cause aggression that will be directed toward you and other humans. Praise works better than punishment, at least most of the time. Most dogs crave praise and approval, so give them what they want when they do what you want. Be consistent with what you ask of your dog and insist that he comply, provided he understands what you want, of course. This will get the ball rolling.
But you're probably wanting something specific, some little trick that will allow you to show your dog that you are in charge. Training is one way, and a necessary way, but an easier way is all about food. Think about it. The life of a dog revolves around food. When do I eat? What do I eat? Who is going to feed me? Can I eat after I go outside? Before? Since food is the center of a dog's life, use food to establish exactly who's the boss.
Do this by NEVER letting your dog just free feed. By this I mean that you should not have a huge bowl of food sitting out for your dog to eat whenever he feels like it. Water, yes, but not food. Never. Under any circumstances. And if you bought an automatic feeder, shove it in the closet and leave it there. It's only use is if you're going to be gone for a couple days and can't convince anyone to feed your pooch.
Instead, divide the food your dog should receive into two portions and feed him every twelve hours. Insist that your dog sit nicely for a while (just a few seconds, really) before you give him the food. And make sure he sees that you are the source of the food. You get the bowl and you fill the bowl and you control when he gets that bowl. There's nothing mean about this. It's what we do to babies, even if we don't realize we're doing it. You control the food. Therefore, you control the household.
By controlling the food and insisting on training and obedience, your dog will quickly learn that you are in charge. You are the alpha. This will make your home life easier on everyone involved and your canine companion will thank you for it.
All dogs are different. Some would never challenge the people in their home, much like my son's little poodle Brownie. But others are looking to take over the household from the moment they get home. My old dog Darby is a fine example of this second type. And with this second type (and really all types), it's important that you establish yourself as the leader at the very beginning of the relationship. I am certainly not implying that you must be mean or even bossy, but you do have to be consistent in your dealings with your dog so that she (I'm going to use the feminine here simply because the problem dog I'm working with at this moment is a female) learns to respect you and all other two-legged members of the household.
Formal obedience classes or puppy kindergarten (depending on the age of your dog) are one step on this road to respect, but it's probably not the first or even the most important. To teach your dog to be a polite member of the family, you have to work with your pooch at home. This is not to discount the importance of organized classes. I firmly believe that each and every dog would benefit from the most basic of obedience classes. But classes aren't enough to get your dog or puppy to behave in the comfort of her own home.
So before you get started with the classes full of other dogs, consider the basic behavior you want in your home. Do you want your dog jumping all over everyone? Probably not. Walking on the table? No. Sitting patiently with a wagging tail when you come in the door? This is always nice. Moving off the couch when people need to sit? Yep, that's polite. Knocking over children? Definitely not.
Once you have the desirable and undesirable behaviors ironed out, you can start working toward conditioning your pet to display these behaviors. Reward those behaviors you want and gently correct those you don't. A little praise or a single treat is a good reward, but the reward has to be immediate. And never ignore good behavior. You want to make sure that good behavior is acknowledged and rewarded so that it is repeated.
As for corrections, you must be gentle. A firm "No" can yield wonderful results, but only if your dog knows what that word means. They don't come preprogrammed, after all. You have to do the programming yourself. So when your dog does something you don't like, such as jumping on the table, let the dog know that's not acceptable with a firm word that is neither loud nor angry. While you're doing this, immediately remove the dog from the situation. Take the dog from the dining room to the kitchen, for example. This tells the dog "If you're going to jump on the table, you're not going to be allowed in the dining room."
This same idea applies to other etiquette issues. Your dog knocked over a child deliberately while playing? Remove the dog from the game. She'll get the picture, though it may take a few repetitions. But beware of correcting an accident. I had a large golden retriever named Misty who knocked over my neighbor by pushing open a door to come in the house. He was standing right there when she came in and and tumbled forward. Accident. Almost like when my older son opened his bedroom door and my younger son got smacked in the head. If it's not deliberate, let it go. The dog probably didn't even realize she did it. Misty certainly didn't.
This should take place from the day the dog enters your home, though it's never too late to learn. But if you're consistent in your rewards and corrections, the dog will develop an undestanding of her place in the family and will become well mannered and polite as a result. But you have to keep at it, and you should certainly think about a formal class, mostly for the socialization of your dog. It can be a good experience for you both.
Well, I've been writing articles about breeds and dog care for weeks, so it's time for a little story. This story takes me all the way back to my childhood and the little dog we called Splashy. This little dog was a terrier, part Yorkshire Terrier, part something else. Regardless of who her parents were, she looked like a terrier and she was one of my best friends growing up.
But she wasn't perfect, as my grandmother will constantly state. The story starts one cold spring morning. It was a Tuesday or a Wednesday ... one of the days my older sister Vicky was in school. Since I was only four years old at the time, I was too young for school. But my father had to work and my mother had volunteered to supervise a field trip at my sister's school. That left my grandmother to watch me and my baby sister Erika. My grandmother arrived at promptly 8am and ushered my sister and mother out the door.
The day went along well enough. Just after our 9am snack, my grandmother packed up my sister and I and we went for a walk. I had Splashy on a leash and the little dog romped beside us, legs flying and fur bouncing. It was cool on this particular morning so we were all wearing gloves and scarves. My grandmother, refined old lady that she was, was wearing stylish brown leather gloves. Not exactly warm, but very pretty.
Splashy obviously agreed because she jumped and nipped, trying with all her might to get a mouthful of glove. You have to understand that Splashy was normally a very well behaved little dog. She never jumped up and she never nipped. But she did both on this blustery morning, and all over a pair of leather gloves. They must have smelled great to her little doggy nose. We never had any leather in our home, so leather gloves were a new experience for Splashy.
But my grandmother was not amused. As she pushed Erika's stroller, she tried everything she could to get Splashy to behave.
"Stop that!" she snapped, giving Splashy a push.
Splashy barked and ran around to my grandmother's other side, possibly hoping that plaguing my grandmother from the right instead of the left would be met with more success.
My grandmother flapped her hands at the little dog. "Get away!"
Well, the flapping only served to drive Splashy into a frenzy as she became determined to have those gloves. She darted in and among the stroller's wheels and started to bark. No, she yipped. Tiny little high pitched yips that made me laugh and my grandmother grumble. The baby remained peacefully sleeping in her stroller.
Eventually, my grandmother had had enough and we headed back to the house, little dog yipping all the way. We got inside and my grandmother told me to take the leash off and put the dog in the sun room. I did as she instructed as she removed the baby from the stroller and set her free in the living room. Then she stripped off her own outerwear. She hung her hat and scarf on a peg, her coat in the closet, and placed her gloves on the side table.
But Splashy was safely in the sun room so we continued on about our day. Erika played and shrieked on the living room floor. I brushed the hair on each and every My Little Pony I had. My grandmother read a novel out loud. I think it might have been The King of Elfland's Daughter, but it was more than twenty years ago now. It might have been something else.
Lunch came and we knew my mother would soon return home. The field trip was only for a couple of hours, after all. So we adjourned to the kitchen and my grandmother made us pasta. Just as we started to eat, the front door opened. We expected my mother to come bustling into the kitchen. Instead, we faintly heard her sigh.
"Oh no," came the voice from the front foyer.
"What?" my grandmother asked, heading toward the foyer.
I put down my fork, interest peaked, as Erika shoved her pasta off her highchair and let it clatter to the floor.
An instant later, my grandmother shrieked. There's no other way to describe it. The sound reverberated through the house and I jumped off my chair and hurried to the foyer. And stopped dead.
There was Splashy, the tiny little dog who was supposed to be in the sun room, with a tiny bit of leather sticking out of her mouth. Other bits of leather were strewn across the floor. My mother and grandmother were standing there staring. And Splashy was doing her best to look innocent. She might have pulled it off if it hadn't been for the bit of leather sticking to her lips.
My grandmother was ranting, wanting to know how the dog had gotten out of the sun room and why on earth Splashy would eat her gloves. During this rant, I began to get a little worried. I had put the dog in the sun room. Would I be in trouble for her escape?
But before my grandmother could direct some blame toward me, my mother went back to the sun room. Her eyes nearly popped out of her head when she saw what Splashy had done. The french doors, which had been in pristine condition, were now ... decidedly not. Splashy, in her desperation to reach the leather gloves, had pulled and chewed until part of the french doors had come away. This was a tiny dog, so she managed to slip through a fairly small hole. Still, eating through wooden doors and still managing not to alert any of us to the damage was quite impressive.
But dear old Grandma was not amused. She lectured the poor little dog, who only looked at her with wide brown eyes. I swear the dog smiled as my grandmother threw up her hands and stormed from the house.
But the lesson was learned. Never leave leather gloves on the side table. Put them away in a pocket or up on a shelf. Even if you think the dog is in the sun room.
Known also as the Airedale and the King of Terriers, the Airedale Terrier of today is much different in appearance than its ancient ancestors. Airedales were originally known as Waterside and Bingley Terriers and are descended from a now-extinct breed that was black and tan in color. The dog was crossed to the Otterhound and Manchester Terrier to gain certain qualities such as a more swimmer-like body. The dog we know today as the Airedale didn't really begin to take shape until the late 18th century.
This interesting breed was used as a vermin and small game hunter in England and draws its name from Valley of the Aire, an area almost overpopulated with small game. As the Airedale spread to different areas of the world, it was also used to hunt large game in areas such as Canada, Africa, and India. The Airedale was also used as a police dog and even a guard dog during World War II.
As one of the largest terrier breeds, the Airedale Terrier stands between 22 and 24 inches and is square in appearance. The head is long and flat and the nose is always black, never dark brown. The small eyes should be dark in color and the teeth should meet in a vice-like grip. The ears flop slightly to the sides of the head as they fall forward. The front legs should be perfectly straight when the dog is standing and the tail should be set high on the back.
The coat of the Airedale should be hard and dense, almost wiry to the touch. The undercoat, however, is a soft down that is designed to keep the dog warm in the water. The coat should either be tan with black markings or tan with grizzle markings. The areas of the body which should be tan include: head, ears, legs, thighs, elbows, chest, underbody, and sometimes the shoulders. The sides and upper parts of the body should be grizzle or black. Some lines have a small white blaze on the chest. This is acceptable in most associations in which the breed is recognized.
The temperament of the Airedale is beloved by many. They are protective, courageous, friendly, intelligent, loyal, and have a pleasant demeanor. Their intelligence and sensitivity make them easily trainable, but they do not respond well to harsh training methods. They sometimes have a short attention span and can be distracted by a bit of food, another dog, or a random squirrel. This dog needs exercise and is not recommended for apartment life.
Airedales should be taken to an obedience class to learn how to behave among people and other dogs. They are easily bored, however, so try to keep training fun, exciting, and new. Asking this breed to do the same trick 100 times in a row is not going to get you anywhere. This dog can sometimes have dominance problems, so is not recommended for families with small children. However, a dog raised among children should come to respect them. Be careful, though, as Airedales can be a little rough without meaning to. They seem to think they're much smaller than they are, so keep them from jumping up and knocking children to the ground.
Airedale Terriers are generally a healthy dog, though they can be prone to eye infections and hip dysplasia. Skin problems may also plague this breed, so feed your Airedale a diet high in omega fatty acids. Skin infections should be dealt with quickly by a veterinarian.
If you're considering an Airedale Terrier as a pet, know that they require intense grooming. At the minimum you must keep the face and feet trimmed and the coat clipped and brushed. Even with this, however, you will likely find tumbleweed-shaped balls of fur around your home. To keep the shedding to a minimum, you'll have to get the coat stripped. This should be done by a professional groomer. Also, you will need to wash the beard daily to remove any food residue.
Today, the Airedale is mostly a companion dog, though some working lines still exist. You can still find talented dogs in the worlds of guarding, hunting, rodent control, tracking, military work, police
work, and competitive obedience. The Airedale Terrier, despite its strengths and desire to work, is usually considered a companion dog.
Also known as the Hokkaido Dog, Hokkaidoken, Hokkaïdo, Ainu-Ken, or Ainu Inu, the Ainu Dog is rarely seen outside Japan. The true origin of this breed is unknown, but they came to Japan with the Ainu tribe almost 3000 years ago. The dog became a guardian of the tribe mostly due to their suspicion of strangers and their desire to protect. This breed is thought to have a common ancestor with both the Chow Chow and the Shar Pei because of the black spots on the tongue. This is, however, purely speculation. We do know that the Ainu Dog is proficient at guarding people and property and is useful as a big game hunting dog and a draft animal.
Physically, the Ainu is thin, muscular, sturdy, and strong. This quick dog has a light gait and small ears that stand erect and are at a right angle to the brow. The eyes are small and set triangularly and almost always a deep brown in color. In many associations, eyes other than brown are an immediate disqualification. There are black spots on the tongue of many, but not all Ainu Dogs have this distinct trait. The nose and lips should both be black or a very dark brown. Pink is not acceptable in any association in which the breed is recognized. The coat of the dog should be straight and dense and may come in a variety of colors, including sesame, brindle, wolf gray, red, brown or white.
The Ainu Dog is considered fearless and determined but also well behaved and loyal. These traits make the Ainu attractive as a hunter, guard dog, or watchdog. They are also popular sled dogs due to their strength and muscular legs. As an intelligent breed, the Ainu is quickly trained and excels as a scent dog, making them attractive as tracking hounds. An innate sense of direction allows this dog to find its way home over great distances and has even been known to rescue a lost person from the depths of the woods, guiding them gently to safety.
As a house pet, these dogs are a bit of a paradox. When raised among small children, the Ainu can make the perfect family dog. Introducing an adult Ainu to small children and pets, however, can be fraught with difficulty. They can be stubborn and headstrong and sometimes refuse to accept smaller family members. It is generally recommended that this dog either be raised among children or have no contact with children. The middle ground doesn't seem to work well with this breed.
Standing from 18 to 22 inches tall, this dog is not a very good apartment dog. Their thick coats and active nature generally mean they need a yard. The Ainu can stay outside in most weather due to their thick coat, but in the summer it's important to make sure your Ainu is not overheating. Heat stroke can be a significant problem with this delightful breed.
With moderate exercise this breed can be the perfect companion or working dog. But they do need a strong pack leader. If you're considering the Ainu as an addition to your family, you should certainly be ready to lead.
The Aidi is also known as the Chien de l’Atlas, the Atlas Sheepdog, and the Atlas Mountain Hound. This dog is muscular and lean with ears that are slightly tipped forward. The tail should have a heavy plume and there should be a visible black lip along the mouth. Eyes should be of a medium shape and dark in color, though the specific color will vary. The eyes should also be rimmed with black, almost as if the dog is wearing mascara. The nose should be either black or brown, depending on the coat color. The coat itself should be thick and resistant to most weather. Acceptable colors for the Aidi include black, white, black and white, tawny and pale red.
Originally used as a flock guard dog, the Aidi is highly energetic and bonds easily to its family. Once this bond is established, the Aidi is very protective of its family. These dogs like to have a job, so if they can't guard a flock, consider hunting or trials or even agility (they are agile and alert). Anything to keep the dog occupied. They can also be stubborn and occasionally intractable. This is a powerful breed and is not for everyone. But if you're willing to work with your dog so both of you are kept busy, this might be the breed for you.
Standing from 21 to 24 inches and weighing from 50 to 55 pounds, this dog is not a very good apartment dog. The Aidi needs space to run, so a yard is good. But they also like to jump, so fence your yard with a fence at least 5 feet high. In addition to being allow to roam, these dogs do need daily walks to keep them fit and healthy.
Thought to have originated in the Sahara, this powerful breed has few natural health problems. But you do have to keep them occupied if you want them to stay out of trouble.
The Africanis, also known as the Hottentot Hunting Dog, Hottentot
Dog, African Hunting Dog, Umbwa Wa Ki-Shenzi, Bantu Dog, Khoikhoi Dog, or the Zulu Dog, are loyal and courageous despite their small size (ranging from 25 to 45 kg). They have tremendous stamina, are very playful, and are quite intelligent. If you look at an Africanis in profile, they look almost like the dogs found in Egyptian hieroglyphics, which gives you some idea of how old the breed is. This dog is one of only two domestic breeds indigenous to Africa (the other one being the Rhodesia Ridgeback).
Though not yet recognized around the world as its own breed, the Africanis Society of Southern Africa is working to conserve the Africanis. However, they are more concerned with preserving it as a landrace (a species that has developed mostly by natural processes with little or no human intervention). Developing it as a breed is not a priority. But since the Kennel Union of South Africa (KUSA) recognizes it as an emerging breed, it may well one day be recognized worldwide.
The Africanis has a short coat and is considered a medium-sized dog. They are well muscled and are actually a little longer than they are tall. They can be of any color and even occasionally have a ridgeback. They are beautiful and simply constructed dogs. They are slender, agile, supple, fast, and designed to hunt on the African plains.
Often considered independent and highly territorial, the Africanis is highly trainable and intelligent. They are friendly without being truly intrusive and they make wonderful watchdogs as they bond to their family and have a great desire to protect. They are naturally submissive, which makes them a great family pet, even for families with young children.
One of the greatest benefits of the Africanis as a breed is that it requires little in the way of special treatment. These dogs don't need a special diet and they don't suffer from any real genetic difficulties. They are a strong breed with a natural resistance to parasites and other infestations.
The Africanis is sweet tempered and loving. Both the males and females make great house pets and will steal your heart with their luminous eyes.
Hot spots, more accurately known as acute moist dermatitis, are horribly uncomfortable for dogs, and can sometimes even be dangerous. These spots are inflamed and infected areas of the skin, and due to frequent scratching and licking, they can spread quickly. While this can affect any dog, some are more prone to hot spots than others, especially those dogs that tend to lick at one spot repeatedly. Luckily, hot spots are fairly easy to treat with a little patience, and occasionally some assistance.
Hot spots can be caused by dust mites, fleas, allergies, excess moisture, or simply from licking and biting at a specific area frequently. If a dog is experiencing areas of redness, oozing, itchiness, and even hair loss, then this dog likely has hot spots. These spots will be sensitive and painful, and may affect a dog’s attitude. Dogs with hot spots may be prone to biting or other forms of aggression. For these any other reasons, hot spots should be treated immediately.
The first step in treating hot spots is to trim the hair away from the infected area. This should be done carefully as to not alarm the dog, but you must ensure that you trim away as much hair as is possible. Exposing hot spots to air will help to dry them out and speed the healing process. The area should be cleansed with a mild water-based astringent or antiseptic. If neither of these are on hand, a mild baby shampoo can also be used. Never use rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide on a hot spot, as the dog may be startled by the pain and bite. Pat the area dry, but do not rub to avoid irritating the damaged flesh any further.
To stop the itching and speed healing, a hydrocortisone spray or lotion might prove useful. It is possible to use Benadryl Itch Stopping Cream or another similar product for temporary relief of inflammation and itching, but this should be discussed with a qualified veterinarian before use. Never use a product designed for humans on a dog without speaking to a veterinarian first.
The dog should not be allowed to lick or scratch the hot spot. If necessary, use a plastic cone or Elizabethan collar to keep the dog from causing further damage to the infected area. Observe the area carefully, and if it worsens or spreads, take the dog to the veterinarian as soon as is possible. A vet can, if necessary, prescribe a topical medication such as an antifungal spray to speed the healing process. Oral medications are also an option, and some veterinarians give cortisone injections to get the healing started.
Hot spots can be very painful, so be careful when treating a dog for this condition. If there is no visible improvement in hotspots after five days of treatment, take the dog to a veterinarian, even if you think the problem is under control, as there may be a deeper skin infection involved. Only a veterinarian can assess the severity of any possible infections.
With patience and care, hot spots can be easily treated. Once the pain and irritation have been relieved, the dog will feel considerably better and should return to being a loving companion.
Kennel cough is a common and highly contagious respiratory disease that can affect dogs of all ages and breeds, and regardless of health. This disease is usually caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica or Mycoplasma, though it can also be caused by viruses such as parainfluenza or adenovirus 2. Kennel cough can cause inflammation of the larynx, trachea, bronchi, and in more severe cases, the lungs themselves.
Dogs with kennel cough will appear generally healthy, but will have a persistent cough that is usually made worse by excitement, exercise, or pressure on the neck by a collar or leash. This cough will be harsh, dry, and may be accompanied by gagging or retching. More severe infections might lead to a runny nose or fever, difficulty breathing, or listlessness. A dog with these signs of advanced infection should be taken to a veterinarian immediately.
Though generally mild, this disease can cause secondary infections in puppies, older dogs, and any canine with a weak immune system, sometime leading to death. This being the case, prevention is the best way to control kennel cough.
A vaccine is available from most veterinarians to help the body develop immunity to the bacteria and viruses that cause kennel cough. In order for this vaccine to be fully effective, it must be given at least three days before exposure to animals that may have this disease, so ensure your dog has the vaccine well in advance of attending any obedience classes. For dogs who are at risk, such as those housed in kennels, shelters, doggy day cares, or groomers, this vaccine should be repeated every six to ten months.
Kennels or any area where dogs are housed should be disinfection regularly to help prevent the spread of kennel cough. A disinfectant with bleach will help to prevent the bacteria from spreading, but ensure that the kennel is well rinsed afterwards for the safety of all dogs in the area. Keep all food and water dishes clean, perhaps by running them through a dishwasher.
It is important to isolate any dogs showing signs of kennel cough, as the disease is easily spread through contact. Even after the symptoms pass, the dog is contagious for up to fourteen weeks after infection. Keep any dog that has had kennel cough quarantined for at least fourteen weeks, unless a veterinarian instructs otherwise.
Kennels should all have adequate ventilation. Those kennels which do not have proper air circulation are breeding grounds for the viruses and bacteria that cause kennel cough. While this is not an issue for outdoor areas, indoor kennels are often lacking in ventilation. Proper nutrition, routine de-worming, and up-to-date vaccinations may also help to prevent the spread of kennel cough.
For the most part, kennel cough can be prevented with a combination of vaccination, proper hygiene, and good health on the part of the dog. Consult a veterinarian for additional tips and ideas on how to prevent, control, or treat kennel cough.
The ears of a dog are quite prone to infections, especially yeast infections. These infections may not seem serious at first, but they can have a negative effect on the health and general well being of your pet, and can lead to deafness, and in the worst cases, death. Properly treated, yeast infections in the ear can be eliminated, and your dog can get back to being its old self.
Before treating a yeast infection in the ear, you have to be able to identify the yeast infection. There are some signs that your dog has some type of ear infection. If your dog shakes its head excessively, or won’t stop scratching its ears, you might have a dog with an ear infection on your hands. If your dog is wearing away your carpet with multiple attempts to dig a hole with its head, then you almost defiantly have an ear infection to deal with.
Check the ear (or ears) in question. If you notice a foul smell, kind of like milk gone sour, you’ll want to take a look and see if you can spot any discharge. If that discharge looks like slime, specifically a brown waxy slime, then you’re likely dealing with a yeast infection. You should deal with this infection as quickly as possible for the benefit of both you and your dog.
You’ll want to begin treatment by cleaning out the dog’s ears. Use a soft cloth, tissue, cotton ball, or cotton swab, but don’t stick anything deep into the ear canal. Remove any pus or ear wax that you can see gently, especially if there is any redness or swelling. You will then have to remove any hair in the ear canal, as the hair is a breeding ground for infection. Plucking this hair is easily done and doesn’t hurt the dog too much, unless there is swelling present. If the ear canal is swollen, wait to pluck the hair until things are looking a little better. You don’t want to cause unnecessary pain to your canine friend.
Make a solution to help clear out the infection and prevent it from returning. Mix up a small amount of half vinegar, half water cleansing solution, and warm it to slightly more than room temperature. Soak your cotton ball or cotton swab in this solution for several minutes. Carefully insert the cotton into the ear canal and wipe the inside of the ear, allowing some of the solution to drip into the ear canal. Massage the outside of the ear to distribute the solution, then let your dog shake its head to remove any excess solution.
Repeat this process twice a day until the foul smell and discharge is gone. Then repeat for a further week, once a day, to help prevent the infection from returning. If the infection does not clear within ten days, or if the infection worsens, take the dog to the veterinarian immediately.
To prevent further infections, keep the ear canal dry and free of hair and foreign objects. It is often helpful if you check the ears on a weekly basis. Gently cleaning the ear on a regular basis will help prevent a recurrence.
Following these tips will help you to treat the yeast infection quickly and easily, and perhaps reduce future ear infections in your dog.
Seeing a beloved dog lose its fur can be a truly frightening experience even for the most experienced of dog owners. The good news is that most hair loss can be easily treated at home. However, before any treatment can begin, a cause for the hair loss must be determined. Each cause will require a slightly different approach when it comes to treating fur loss in a dog.
One of the most common causes of hair loss in dogs is mange mites. These tiny little insects live in the coat of the dog, burrowing into the skin and causing severe itching. The dog will scratch, bite, and lick continually in an effort to stop this itching, causing the fur loss. Mites can be treated with either prescription or over the counter medications. Be sure to follow the directions fully and carefully, and do not end treatment early or the mites could return.
Ringworm can also cause hair loss in canines. Ringworm is actually a fungal infection, and not a type of actual worm. It is named after the distinctive rash it causes, which does appear to be a little ring on the skin. Ringworm must be treated by a veterinarian as quickly as possible to ensure that the condition doesn’t worsen. Once ringworm has been successfully treated, the hair will grow back naturally. Keep in mind that ringworm can be passed to humans, so you should talk all necessary precautions when it comes to protecting your own family against this infection.
If the area of hair loss is hot to the touch, red, or inflamed, then the likely cause of fur loss is infection. Perhaps the dog was wounded, or the infection could be internal of some kind. The best treatment for this is to seek the advice of a veterinarian. A vet will be able to prescribe the appropriate antibiotics. Once the infection is cleared, normal hair growth can resume.
Allergies are another common cause of hair loss in dogs. While not particularly serious in most cases, the patchy hair loss associated with allergies can be disturbing. The only way to treat this is to remove the allergen. It might be in the environment, such as mold, dirt, or pollen, so an effort should be taken to avoid these substances. The dog could also be allergic to something in its food. If this is the case, changing the dog’s diet would solve the problem and allow the hair to grow in naturally once more.
One of the more benign causes of hair loss is constant scratching. Some dogs just like to scratch, and if they do it often enough, they could cause their own fur loss. Unfortunately, the only way to stop this type of hair loss is to stop the scratching. This will involve behavior modification and training, and could be a long and difficult process. Consult a veterinarian or dog trainer for assistance if needed.
Most causes of hair loss in canines require the assistance of a veterinarian to diagnose and treat, so do not hesitate to contact a professional for advice if you are not absolutely sure of the reason for the hair loss. Once the cause of the fur loss is addressed, the hair will eventually grow back, and it will be as if nothing ever happened.
